Xochimilco of my heart

Trajineras

Get swept away by the floating beauty in the middle of Mexico City.

As David and I looked forward to our first trip to Mexico together, I told him, “We can sit in your aunt’s kitchen and drink tequila all day if that’s what you want, there’s just one thing I have to see.” Then that one thing (Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul) turned into two things, and then three things, and then many, many things I wanted to see, including the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Xochimilco (so-chee-meel-koh).

Xochimilco is a series of floating islands (chinampas) connected by canals that was established around 919 AD by the Xochimilca people. The Xochimilcas lived along the banks of Lake Xochimilco, in the area that is now the southeast part of Mexico City. Sitting at an elevation of 7,350 feet above sea level, the area was arid and difficult to farm. Instead of moving water to farmland by way of irrigation, the Xochimilcas built their farmland on top of the lake. They anchored huge nets to the lakebed and filled the nets with dirt. Over time, islands formed. The manmade land proved excellent for sustaining both crops and livestock, which continue to thrive there today.

In earlier days, people toured the canals on large flat-bottomed boats (trajineras) decorated each day with bright flowers. Appropriate since Xochimilco grows over 90% of Mexico City’s flowers. Today, the boats are painted lively colors with fanciful names, such as Dulce Clarita, Maria Bonita, and Mi Estrellita (Sweet Little Clara, Beautiful Maria, My Little Star).

Strong young men punt the trajineras with a single pole through the miles of remaining canals. For a reasonable fee you can bring a dozen friends and enjoy peaceful hours gliding past the lush islands, seeing pure white herons fish among the lily pads, and people-watching as you pass other trajineras.

White herons are common in the canals of Xochimilco

You are welcome to bring your own food and drinks aboard, but if you get hungry, you can also buy tacos and other snacks from the floating restaurants (chalupas) along the way. If it gets a little quiet for your taste, summon a boatload of musicians who will pull alongside you and serenade you for a few pesos.

If you choose the 4-hour tour, you’ll get to stop at Doll Island (Isla de las Munecas), which seems wildly out of place with the rest of Xochimilco. Come back to mexican-in-law.com the week of Halloween to find out more about the creepiest place I’ve ever been.

After all this talk about Xochimilco, you’re probably wondering if David ever did get time to sit and drink tequila with his aunts. He certainly did, my friends. Ciertamente lo hizo.

Ready to float away? TripAdvisor offers many tours combined with other Mexico City attractions, including the Frida Kahlo Museum

By the way, there is a Xochimilco in Cancun, which is a recreation of the original. Just wanted you to be aware in case you’re planning a trip and buying tickets ahead of time.

Have you been to Xochimilco? Tell us what you thought.

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